Letter from Turkey (1717): Albanians go to the mosque on Friday, to church on Sunday

The English writer Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1689–1762) – née Pierrepont – was born in London into an aristocratic family. In 1712, she married Edward Wortley Montagu and accompanied him to Istanbul four years later, where he would serve as British ambassador (1716–1718). Her account of their journey to Istanbul and her observations of life in the Ottoman Empire were included in her widely read memoirs, written in the form of letters from Turkey. One letter, written on 1 April 1717, includes descriptions of her first meeting with some Arnaouts, that is, Albanians.
By: Lady Mary Wortley Montagu[1]
Prepared by: Robert Elsie
Translation: Telegrafi.com
But of all the religions [sic] that I have seen, the Arnaöuts [sic] seem to me the most peculiar. They are natives of Arnaöutlich [Albania], ancient Macedonia, and still retain something of the bravery and endurance – though they have lost the name – of the Macedonians, being the best militia in the Turkish Empire and the only security against the Janissaries.
They are foot soldiers; we had a guard of them, which was changed in every large city we passed: they are all dressed and armed at their own expense, usually strong young men, dressed in thick, clean white clothes, carrying weapons of extraordinary length, which they slung over their shoulders as if they did not feel the weight.
The leader sings some kind of simple, not unpleasant melody, and the others join in the chorus.
These people, living among Christians and Mohammedans, and not being skilled in polemics, declare that they are entirely incapable of judging which religion is the best; but, to be sure that they will not completely reject the truth, they follow both religions very cleverly: they go to the mosque every Friday and to church on Sundays, saying, as an excuse, that, on the Day of Judgment, they are sure of the protection of the true prophet; but who he is, they are unable to determine in this world. I believe that there is no other race of mankind that has such a modest opinion of its own ability. /Telegraph/
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