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Report from Dardha: Different in every season

Report from Dardha: Different in every season

By: Zylyftar Hoxha

... This is what is said about Korça, Dardha and Vokopojë in a guide written by an exile in America in the 30s of the last century and edited by Dhimitër Pasko (Mitrush Kuteli). The guide was published under the auspices of the Tourism Patron of that time, Mrs. Mejhide Zogu, the sister of King Zogu, and constitutes a document that proves that Korça, Dardha and Voskopoja, apart from the classic history, have another history, which rarely anyone in Albania has : the tourist history.

It is precisely this history and tradition, apart from later developments, that makes many people from all parts of Albania flock to the Southeast, this highly desired tourist destination.


Because Korça, not only as a city, but also in its entire territory and villages, has wonderful tourist resources. First of all, there are very loving and friendly people who, as the saying goes, "don't let you fall down". Find luxury hotels and restaurants with excellent traditional cuisine.

The accent of the Korçars, both from the city and from the countryside, is somewhat endearing and you enjoy listening to it. It's like music, and when old people speak it, they look 10 years younger.

What about the villages? A separate story, in them you find a hospitality that only the inhabitants of these parts know how to do. Their houses shine with cleanliness. Their abundance is seen not only on dining tables, but also in yards and overcrowded sheds.

You will be delighted with the environments of their houses, avlis, taps and seleshites. The farmers (sorry, farmers) of these parts are among the most hardworking in Albania. They probably don't know the concept of "green" (rural) tourism. You are going and you will not feel satiated contemplating their agricultural and livestock farms neatly organized with products of every kind.

What about the food? Dardha and Voskopoja have the name, but you will find that cuisine ten times better here in Libonik, Pocestë, Vloçisht, Vashtmi, Symiz, Vreshtaz, Vitkuq, Lubonjë, etc.

And while you're at it, don't forget to have a coffee at Vreshtas. After this coffee, head a little further, to Sheqeras, the place that has filled the meteorological maps of the world, as the coldest place in Albania. The lowest temperature in all of Albania was recorded in this village: -25.8°C in 1963.

After this coffee I walk further, where the tourist potentials are endless both in the city and in the countryside. Everywhere you can stay surrounded by a special hospitality, but Dardha and Voskopoja remain among the most hospitable places, most accustomed to the coming and going of travelers.

Many visitors come there in every season of the year, because both Dardha and Voskopoja offer attractive natural scenes that will captivate you with their magical beauty.

Since we have been to Voskopoja before, this time we chose Dardha. It is said that living in Dardha can be considered a blessing, but even visiting Dardha is a real pleasure, which should be tried at least once in a lifetime, as we are doing as a family.

Walking towards it, I remember what I have read about it in various historical sources. As Dardha not only has an amazing nature, but also an amazing history.

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Looking at it from the veranda of the "Hunter's House" hotel-restaurant, one of the most frequented facilities in Dardha, where we stayed, Dardha really looks like heaven. Lying between mountains and forests, with a rare natural beauty, at an altitude of 1344 meters above sea level, Dardha offers a healthy climate and clean air. Winter sports, especially skiing, attract tourists who are passionate about them. The greenery and freshness of the summer days, but also the winter with lots of snow, make it a favorite place.

But it's not just nature. It is also the people who attract you, who radiate a special culture. Hospitality occupies an important place in the tradition of the village, in every alley there are fountains and water fountains, specially designed for those who came to visit Dardha. The characteristic stone houses complete the beauty of this village. The landscape, the opportunity to walk and stroll in nature make Dardha special. The air and water of Darda have curative values.

From early on, but especially recently, tourism in Dardha has developed a lot, putting every possible resource at its disposal. In Dardha, all the houses of the residents are suitable for accommodation, with comfortable, quite comfortable and intimate conditions for tourists.

If you don't want to stay in these houses, there are plenty of hotels and motels that offer very good conditions and reasonable prices, including the former holiday home. The peculiarity of the seasons is that the summer season is more frequented by foreign tourists, among whom the most German, English, French, Greek, Israeli, Chinese, etc. tourists. The number of tourists keeps growing, and thus, makes it enjoy a tradition rich in values.

Dardha, like many other villages in the southeast of Albania, has its characteristic houses built with stone slabs, cobbled streets, gates decorated with artistic motifs and courtyards full of flowers.

In Dardha, there used to be a hundred fountains turned into beautiful taps, built by different masters, so that travelers could refresh themselves and quench their thirst. Even today, some of these sources are located along the streets of the village.

Tourists who come to Dardha, are amazed by the regularity of the layout of the houses, the interesting architecture, the exemplary cleanliness of the cobbled streets, which most of the time are filled with a layer of grass.

Characteristic of the Pear cuisine is the lakori with two noodles. Also, you should definitely try other dishes of the housewives of Darda, without leaving aside the other dishes of the Korça area, such as oshmares, kernacks, roasted meat of the area, etc. But also the carrier products should be tried, they especially take on a different taste if you consume them during a picnic in nature.

That's why you don't get bored of Dardha - because you find it different from season to season, but also from year to year. Every time you are there you seem to be yourself for the first time.

That the nature there changes every hour and every day, that the hosts know how to make tourism like no other place in Albania.

Therefore, to "taste" the Korça Pear, you must try it four times a year, in all four seasons, as it is different in every season. What you find in winter, you don't find in summer; what you find in spring you don't find in autumn.

In winter there is snow, there are skis, a fireplace with a bubulak fire, pickles, pure yeast and the characteristic cabbage; in spring the flowers, the rustle of the woods and the song of the birds; in summer the days and nights are cool, the razor-cold water and relaxing walks in the heaths around; in autumn the impressive colors and tables full of the best and tastiest of the season.

If you're headed to Dardha, don't be embarrassed about anything. There you will find everything you need. There are more than 60 accommodation units that are sufficient and not too expensive, starting from the former holiday house turned into a hotel and restaurant, the construction of new hotels, or also experiencing the hospitality tradition of the area residents. hosting in their characteristic stone-built houses and graceful courtyards full of flowers.

There is no doubt that Dardha has become a favorite destination for many visitors from all over Albania. The paving of the road, the provision of drinking water, the preserved forests around it, have created a truly magnificent sight in every season.

Taking notes for a report about the province of Devolli, which I published in my book "Travels through Albania, cultural and historical guide", a resident of those very hardworking, but also very wise, that Devolli has the most said something that I had not come across written anywhere.

He had a remark for the government, for the Ministry of Tourism, for the municipality of Korça and Bilishti, who, unfortunately, in promotions, tourist guides, TV shows, reports and articles in newspapers, have left Dardha, but also presented as an isolated treasure island.

"It is not like that", he continues, "Dardha is part of Devolli, both geographically and ethnoculturally. The beauty does not remain only within it, but continues further, in places and points of Devolli that are not far from Darda and can be stepped on by tourists without any great physical effort, such as Sinica, Bradëvica, Arrëza, Nikolica, Qyteza, etc.

And further it adds other options and destinations. Thus, through the Miras-Dardhe road, Ziçishti, Grapshi, Hoçishti, Progri, why not, all of Devolli are added as tourist attractions.

Tourists can be given the opportunity to see two of the sources of the river Devolli, one in Morava and the other in Gramoz, and this would be an extraordinary experience.

This would make tourists stay more days in Dardhë, thus bringing more foreign currency to the Albanian market.

This is in terms of natural beauties, but also the ethno-cultural values ​​of Devolli are no less than those of Dardha.

The hospitality, lakrori and brandy of Darda plum are praised, but the hospitality, lakrori and brandy of Devolli have not been tried.

So Dardha is not an isolated enigmatic island, but part of a whole province, like that of Devolli. At least this is how Albanian history, geography, demography, economy and culture know it.

The pear is in Devoll and belongs to Devoll. Why is it not included in the tourist maps and treated as such?! Perhaps the day will not be far when the tourist map of this area will expand.

The vital profession of the pear growers, at least until the end of the 19th century, was that of a woodworker. The lack of land and the difficult terrain forced pear farmers with ax and saw in hand to find work where there was a need for this craft, of course, far from their homes and families.

They, like the oparaks and panaritas with hammers and trowels in bags, were among the first emigrants from the surroundings of Korca to the Balkan countries, Greece, Romania, Bulgaria, Istanbul, etc. The pear farmers were the most organized in faraway work. With caravans of 20-30 people, with mules, armed, they went wherever there was work, especially in the Greek forests, in Olympus, in the mountains of Sel, Athos, Mesollongji, Demir-Kapi, Anodoll, Ruse, Isekum and Turkey, in the Rhodope mountains in Bulgaria, on the pier of Varna, etc.

The ax, the basic tool of the dardhar, became a legend, so much so that the well-known expression "He cuts it with the ax of the dardhar" remained.

After seasonal emigration to the countries of the Balkans and Turkey, already used to working and living outside the family, with the beginning of emigration to the American continent, they were the first to take the long way.

At the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, Dardha was emptied of men. Rarely did a house remain without leading an emigrant to the distant continent. There, the Dardhars had a great and well-known role in patriotic societies, contributing significantly to the Albanian community in America, but also to the major historical events of Albania, actively participating in these events.

Pear-loving, practical and wise, they took care of their homes, even when no heir lived in them.

A large part of them, when they ran away with the whole family, left the keys of their neighbors' houses for the hosts who came to Darda for the fall or winter. Because Dardha has been coveted for tourism since at least 100 years ago.

Today, there are few autochthonous pear trees in Dardha. As in all the coveted places in Albania, Dardha was also "occupied" by resourceful, talented newcomers with clean money, but also by mobsters from other provinces; sons-in-law and former sons-in-law came here building houses, villas, guesthouses, motels and hotels and making Dardha famous as before, but even better than before.